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Christian Louboutin : Highway to heel

Christian Louboutin nous a accordé un créneau de trois heures dans son emploi du temps de ministre. Nous avons sauté sur l’occasion pour lui proposer un shooting et une interview exclusive. Le maître chausseur évolue avec bonhommie dans son empire du premier arrondissement de Paris, épaulé par une cour de belles femmes haut perchées sur des talons à semelles rouges. Lors de notre entretien, nous buvons les paroles du designer, bercés par les clapotis des stilettos de ses assistantes. Cette année, la maison Louboutin fête ses 20 ans d’excellence, l’occasion pour Luxuriant d’offrir sa couverture au soulier le plus culte et le plus prisé des Fashion Week. Interview avec l’homme qui sublime les pieds de nos dulcinées !

Vous êtes-vous offert un cadeau pour l’anniversaire des 20 ans de la maison Louboutin ?

Nous avons fait une exposition à Londres et édité un beau livre.

Quelle a été la consécration de ces deux décennies de carrière ?

D’avoir finalement réussi à créer pendant tout ce temps avec le même enthousiasme.

Repartez-vous pour 20 ans supplémentaires ?

Évidemment (sourire) !

À quel moment avez-vous saisi l’ampleur du nom Louboutin ?

Vers 2007, lorsque je passais les portiques de l’aéroport de Los Angeles, les douanières se sont extasiées devant les souliers que j’avais dans mes bagages. C’était assez rigolo.

Quel est le moment idéal pour offrir une paire de Louboutin ?

Dès qu’il existe une pointe de désir…

Ne dit-on pas également qu’un homme qui offre une paire de Louboutin à une femme, se fait également son propre cadeau ?

Je suis tout à fait d’accord avec cette idée, mais cela reste cependant un joli effort pour l’homme car il doit connaître des renseignements assez précis comme la pointure de la femme, et surtout avoir le goût du détail. Ce n’est pas un cadeau anodin. Un homme n’offre jamais des souliers à une femme par hasard. C’est quand même une symbolique très positive.

Qui achète des Louboutin ?

Beaucoup de monde mais pas forcément un type de femme précis. Mes clientes ont simplement en commun un vrai goût de leur féminité. Elles n’aimeraient pas, en un coup de baguette magique, se retrouver en homme. Elles sont ravies d’être femme.

Mais les hommes aiment également beaucoup votre collection masculine.

Oui, absolument. C’est amusant car ma clientèle masculine est très friande de mes produits. La première boutique homme se trouve à Paris, et j’en ouvre trois ou quatre supplémentaires à Londres et aux États-Unis.

Pour quel personnage en particulier avez-vous débuté une collection homme ?

Le chanteur anglais Mika a été le premier à me demander des souliers pour ses concerts. Il souhaitait retrouver l’excitation déclenchée par mes chaussures chez ses trois sœurs et ses amies. Il avait besoin de cette euphorie pour se sentir à l’aise sur scène. Ses arguments me plaisaient car j’adorais cette idée d’enthousiasme et d’excitation.

Avez-vous une cliente fidèle depuis vos débuts ?

Oui, dont une spécifique que j’aime beaucoup. Elle chausse une taille 41 et avait, à l’époque, beaucoup de difficulté à trouver chaussure à son pied (sourire).

Savez-vous pourquoi une femme sur deux à Hollywood porte des Louboutin ?

Parce que je suis au service des gens et finalement quand on est une chanteuse, une actrice ou tout simplement une artiste, il est important de se sentir bien et belle.

Essayez-vous absolument de placer vos produits dans les films ?

Non, je n’ai jamais rien demandé. Dans certains longs métrages, les habilleurs ont acheté leurs Louboutin et dans d’autres, s’ils en désirent pour une scène spéciale, ils nous font simplement leur demande. Ensuite, à nous d’accepter ou non. J’aime que mes créations soient portées avec plaisir et non par obligation. Le désir est pour moi le seul objectif à atteindre.

Comprenez-vous parfaitement les femmes ?

Je suis né dans une famille très féminine. Je n’avais que des sœurs autour de moi, toutes plus âgées. J’ai toujours favorisé le côté beau et féminin. Les femmes voient naturellement le fait que la jambe est belle, la cheville est dessinée et que les proportions sont là pour allonger. Je n’ai encore jamais rencontré de femmes qui voulaient avoir la cheville plus épaisse. Tous ces éléments sont vraiment inclus génétiquement et je m’en sers systématiquement.

Quelle cambrure maximale vous autorisez-vous pour vos chaussures ?

Exactement 12,5 c’est à dire 125 mm. Je vais faire, la semaine prochaine, un talon de 17 cm sur une cambrure de 11 cm.

Un pied de femme dans une chaussure Louboutin a-t-il réellement la position de l’orgasme ?

Oui, je crois, enfin sauf dans une ballerine. Des études démontrent que lors de l’orgasme, le pied est très cambré. Le soulier est un objet fétichiste.

Conseillez-vous de garder ses Louboutin pour faire l’amour ?

Bien sûr et ce n’est pas nouveau (rires).

Quelle est la meilleure publicité pour Louboutin ?

Une femme qui croise les jambes.

Et la plus mauvaise ?

Se voir copier.

Ce n’est pas, en soi, un aboutissement ?

C’est flatteur cinq minutes mais très vite agaçant.

D’où vient le rouge Louboutin ?

De Chine, je voulais un rouge laqué vraiment chinois. Je l’ai trouvé précisément en 1992 et c’est aujourd’hui, encore et toujours, le même rouge.

Désirez-vous un jour créer semelle d’une autre couleur ?

Non.

Comment entretient-on ses Louboutin ?

J’espère avec amour.

On les jette et on en rachète d’autres ?

Les femmes ont un rapport masculin avec leurs souliers et les hommes un rapport assez féminin. Elles ne sont jamais tellement fières d’avoir gardé leurs souliers 15 ou 20 ans. Elles ne tirent aucune fierté de la pérennité de leurs chaussures. Au contraire, les hommes se disent toujours « ah, je vais pouvoir les offrir à mon fils, je les ai depuis 30 ans ». Ils ont un rapport très « chochotte » avec l’objet. Par exemple, les femmes ne cirent pas leurs souliers. Les brosses et le cirage sont proposés uniquement dans les boutiques hommes.

Une paire de Louboutin vieille de 10 ans est-elle encore au goût du jour ?

Oui absolument ! La Pigalle avec laquelle je pose en couverture de Luxuriant a 10 ans…

Dessinez-vous selon une périodicité bien stricte avec une rigueur spécifique ?

Premièrement, je ne dessine pas à Paris. J’ai besoin d’être isolé à la campagne, dans ma maison au Portugal ou au Brésil. J’aime me retrouver dans des endroits confortables où j’ai l’habitude d’aller. Une fois lancé, je vais très vite. Je passe d’un dessin à un autre. J’en fais environ une centaine, un peu comme un écrivain devant un nouveau roman.

Où trouvez-vous l’inspiration ?

Partout, à partir du moment où tout est dessiné autour de soi. Tout est fabrication, rien n’est naturel. Donc à partir de ce moment là, je vois pratiquement derrière tous les objets un goût, une rigueur, une lassitude, un esprit strict ou baroque. Mes deux inspirations récurrentes sont la scène et tout ce qui est artisanal, du textile au mobilier.

Travaillez-vous en musique ?

Non.

Et pour votre plaisir, quel univers musical vous touche ?

La musique indienne ! J’adore les films de Bollywood. J’ai récemment revu Gaja Gamini, un long métrage génial où la chanson principale fait « laila laila » (il chante) avec  l’acteur Shahrukh Khan.

Êtes-vous davantage un businessman qu’un créateur ?

J’ai eu une période où il a bien fallu que je devienne une homme d’affaires. Cette époque a consisté à trouver un directeur général, un président, un juriste, bref des gens qui m’enlevaient un poids pour des tâches dans lesquelles je ne me sentais pas du tout à ma place. Nous sommes aujourd’hui plus de 60 dans l’entreprise Louboutin, et je n’ai aucun problème à déléguer.

Qui vous inspire ?

Dita Von Teese est un peu ma muse, ma sœur Farida aussi. Je relève des attitudes comme la manière dont Dita marche. Elle me fait penser à une forme ronde. Les jambes de ma sœur sont un langage totalement différent, des tournures plus angulaires.

Offrez-vous des Louboutin à vos sœurs pour Noël ?

Pas à toutes (sourire).

Êtes-vous flatté lorsque Jennifer Lopez intitule « Louboutins » le premier single extrait de son album Love ?

Oui, tout d’abord parce qu’elle me l’a demandé et ensuite parce que les paroles font référence à une fille qui trouve sa liberté dans ses souliers. Donc, à partir du moment où c’est un hymne à la liberté, cela me plait.

Idem lorsque le rappeur Ol Kainry chante sa chanson « Sexy, Legging & Louboutin » ?

Je ne connais pas bien la chanson mais je ne suis pas tellement fan des « sexy leggings ». Je trouve que les paroles sont moins flatteuses.

Vous attaquez en justice pour ce genre de chose ?

Je ne sais pas… Ce n’est pas moi qui gère ce genre d’histoires. Demandez à mon service juridique.

Vous avez d’ailleurs récemment gagné votre procès contre Saint Laurent Paris ?

Exactement, le procès a révélé que la maison Saint Laurent Paris devait retirer tous ses produits qui, selon le juge, sont des copies de Louboutin avec la semelle rouge, qui est ma marque de reconnaissance, ma signature et un brevet déposé.

Vous interdisez-vous des produits comme des sabots Louboutin ?

Je ne m’interdis rien. Je dessine moi-même mes commandes. Cependant, je conçois certains modèles, et tout à coup je ne les aime plus. Ils sont donc retirés avant d’avoir vraiment existé. En revanche, il y a des terrains sur lesquels je ne m’aventurerai pas. On m’a récemment proposé de faire une ligne de vêtements. C’était amusant et flatteur mais ce domaine ne m’intéresse pas du tout.

Quelle est la danse ultime à faire avec des Louboutin ?

J’ai fait des souliers pour une danseuse de flamenco. J’ai trouvé cette grande danseuse magnifique !

Qui possède la plus grosse collection de Louboutin ?

J’ai adoré ce scandale aux États-Unis : un mari a divorcé et réclame à son épouse une partie de sa collection d’escarpins. Elle possède plus d’un million de dollars de Louboutin. Je trouve cette anecdote très amusante. Je raffole des histoires et des ragots. Ils me font dessiner…

Avez-vous déjà une idée de modèles que vous allez dédier à cette femme ?

Pas encore mais quand je dessinerai, je penserai à elle.

Connaissez-vous le marché luxembourgeois ?

Non, mais je connais quelques luxembourgeoises. Il n’existe pas de différences fondamentales entre les femmes du Grand-Duché et les autres.

Quand vous dessinez un soulier, est-il forcément destiné au marché mondial ou existe-t-il des différences selon les marchés ?

Non, quand je dessine, je ne pense pas du tout à des marchés. Mon dessin est libre. Une fois terminé, je fais voyager ma collection. Elle va se sentir bien dans certaines parties du globe et dans d’autres, non. Par exemple en Russie, à Moscou, on porte des bottes blanches certainement en référence aux contes de fées avec des princesses aux bottes blanches… Rassurez-vous, je ne vends des bottes blanches qu’en Russie. Suivant la culture du pays, les couleurs et les formes sont différentes. Les Anglais aiment beaucoup le pastel. Le corps de la collection est le même partout mais après, il persiste des spécificités suivant le lieu de commercialisation.

Quel a été votre rôle sur la revue du Crazy Horse qui vient de s’achever ?

Je me suis occupé de la direction artistique et j’ai également imaginé les numéros. Les souliers donnent un langage très complet et complexe au Music Hall.

Vous avez fréquenté le Palace, le club mythique parisien des années 80. Aujourd’hui, où buvez-vous ?

Je ne bois pas chez moi, je continue à boire dehors… sauf à Paris.

 

La collection Louboutin est disponible chez Cape Cod, 6 avenue de la Porte Neuve à Luxembourg.

Photos : Mathieu César

 

 


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      Two months in the past, I used to be chosen as being the Canadian delegate to show up at a weather modify instruction session with European youth on board an expedition vessel inside the Norwegian Arctic archipelago of Svalbard. Education was led by a group from the United Countries Surroundings Programme polar analysis centre, GRID-Arendal and the occasion was organized by the British Council and Youth in Motion. I established off from Toronto with my extremely hot Canada Goose Expedition parka on an adventure that might become the most inspiring expertise of my lifestyle canada goose outlet. On our very first evening aboard the "Antarctic Aspiration," embarking on our voyage into the Svalbard wilderness, our expedition leader Philipp informed us about some thing referred to as "polar fever." He explained it as being a passion for your Arctic that grows within oneself upon experiencing the location canada goose jacket, and he hoped that we'd all catch it. Immediately after shelling out every week immersed inside the unparalleled all-natural splendor of Svalbard, I am able to state that, without a question, I have caught a bad scenario of polar fever - and I've by no means been happier to really feel so ill. Regrettably, the Arctic region in addition has caught its own version from the polar fever - and individuals are causing it. Unlike the polar fever that I have caught, the Arctic location provides a temperature that is certainly climbing swiftly - it's called weather change, along with the Arctic requirements some serious medical interest just before it really is way too late. We've all observed a great deal about climate modify and significantly of the data disseminated for the community can appear complicated and also contradictory. There are lots of vested pursuits in preserving discord within the public viewpoint regarding the legitimacy of environment adjust. Nonetheless, there is scientific consensus the existing accelerated adjustments in environment are anthropogenic - to put it differently, caused by humans. Some of us had been presently drifting into a silent meditative place, when our guide questioned everyone to sit down, put down their cameras and consider a couple of occasions in silence to reflect upon our experiences more than the past month. To try and understand a natural rate of climate change, I recommend taking a while to sit down on the mountain and reflect. Reflect on the countless many years that it's taken to sort, and just how it's shifting consistently, but in a pace that we have been unable to see. The environment in the earth does fluctuate in long-term cycles that will final tens of a huge number of many years and for a longer time. With these modifications in climate appear mass alterations within the kinds of flora and fauna that flourish and cease to exist. 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The earth is composed of techniques which might be all interconnected - when change occurs in a single technique, it impacts every thing else. Many of the environmental adjustments that we're bearing witness to are scientifically related to weather adjust. We had some profound interactions with wildlife in Svalbard that have touched my soul and brought me a whole new degree of comprehension regarding their plight. Polar bears will be the encounter of weather adjust within the Arctic and so they have an arduous struggle for survival in advance of them. Climate adjust is about wildlife and the pure environment, but it is additionally about you and me. From intense weather conditions activities, droughts and forest fires, to invasive species and declining indigenous populations canada goose parkas, freshwater and foods security to human wellness, local weather change impact us all. Although it really is simple to forget living in an urban centre, we all count upon the pure natural environment for survival. Weather adjust is without doubt essentially the most considerable situation our species has faced in modern day occasions. A large level of worldwide cooperation ought to be sought to be able to strengthen protection to the previously vulnerable Arctic location also to deal with international weather change in the cohesive fashion. The Arctic could be the canary while in the local weather mine, and it's presently exhibiting significant impacts of weather change. We should heed the warning phone and are available collectively as being a nation to address the problem of environment adjust and develop complete mitigation and adaptation techniques. 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